Black and white

Picture the scene: 

You are taking a tour around a 500-year old castle. You learn this is where British thugs stored African slaves in the worst conditions imaginable, before packing them into ships set for various ‘developed’ countries around the world. The local guide tells you the floor is in fact an original feature from those disgraceful days, and the surface you are stepping on is not tarred, but caked in layer upon layer of the human sweat and excrement of the thousands of slaves who lived their horrific days there.

Oh, I forgot to say – you are only white person in the building.  ‘Uncomfortable’ does not even begin to describe it.

In Africa it is unavoidable to feel strange because of skin colour. But it has never caused problems; only curiosity. In Cape Coast, however, it felt different. Perhaps it was the sight of numerous white tourists and the local children begging for money.. Or the undercurrent of resentment I felt when talking to some locals about Britain’s colonial history... Or perhaps simply the sight of the castle and the knowledge that our ancestors enslaved whole generations of this land, and now we are back with more money than most Ghanaians could ever dream of.

For whatever reason, a times I felt uneasy there. This was not a regular thing, don’t get me wrong, but it was notable because it was the first time I have felt it here. Everyone is very welcoming to visitors here (it’s in their constitution, apparently), and despite their independence in 1957 they are interested in all things European, especially football. But I’ll tell you about football here another time.

Inside the castle - cannonballs from the 1800s

The castle was built in 1653, and is one of dozens of old forts along the Ghanaian coast, all monuments to the European domination of Africa over the course of 400 years. The Dutch, Portugese, and finally the British all laid claim to the castle, and used it to protect their colonial interests at the expense of the locals. Inside there are there are many of the old features of the castle intact, along with a museum exhibiting lots of local history. Pretty interesting stuff!

This past weekend we visited Kakum national park, taking in the sights from a 40m canopy walk and seeing many different animals and awesome trees. We saw a Dutch monkey sanctuary and crocodile park – in separate places, thankfully – as preparation for a trip to Mole national park in the North over the Christmas holidays.

Canopy walk - don't look down!

The two times we have stayed in Cape Coast we have been treated to some amazing Rastafarian hospitality. They get to see a lot of tourists, but they have been so welcoming to us – making us punch, pancakes, smoothies, giving car rides and generally being pretty cool guys! They run their own school and I’ve loved getting to know them and their way of life, and their crazy-long hair.

Talking to Ghanaians is one of my favourite parts about being here, in spite of the frequent communication problems (English is often not their first language). Last week I stayed with a friend named Ben in the coastal town of Elmina, and it was lovely to eat and watch terrible TV with his wife and kids.

I’m almost half-way through my time here already. It’s getting hotter but I’m enjoying it the longer I stay.

Huw

Cape Coast at sunset